Bau dein eigenes haus

[luk]

Hallo,

PLANNING:

First thing to do is to write down an inventory of your future space needs. A so called "program" Of course it is obvious that nobody else than yourself can do this. The second thing is to turn this written inventory into a routing and groundplan. An easy method is cutting out of cardboard in a scale of 1 to 100, squares representing parts of your house. Kitchen, bedroom, living....You can then play around with this pieces of paper arranging them next to each other untill you found a satisfactory set up.
Important things to take in acount are:
-Orientation. If you want to spent as less as possible energy for your house it is obvious that in warmers climate you orient away from the sun, and in colder climate you take full benifit of the free sun energy. Also build on the sunny side of your house an overhang of the roof. Choise this overhang so that in wintertime when the sun is low still sunshine can enter your rooms. In summer when the sun stay's high then the shade of the overhang prevents sun from comming into the rooms.
-routing;
You have internal routing and external routing to consider. Internal routing: After you have laid out your cardboard pieces rooms, think of how many times you will need to walk from one room to the other. Draw with a thick pencil a line for every time you walk somwhere in your house. Draw the thick lines next to each other. At the end you will visiualy see which road in your house you take the most. If the most frequented road between rooms is too longe arrange your cardboard pieces to make roads as short as possible.
Do the same with the external space.

Then it is time to make a first sketch of the whole of your house or from parts you ares already fully satisfied. Start in the beginning wit a hand drawed one. Something like this

1wle voor 3 001.jpg

Next post I will write something about electronics means there are to help you in your planning. In the mean time feel free to react;

Luk

[luk]

PLANNING 2:

I found it very usefull to use the computer to design my drawings. If you draw on paper and want to make corrections or change your mind, then you have to redo practicaly all your work. With Cad programs you can save, cut and paste, reorder..... within a few clicks.

There are two programs that I found very handy to design architecture. Both are to use for free. The first one, SKETCHUP http://www.sketchup.com/ gives you the possibility's to visualisise your future home in three dimensions. You can find much tutorials how to use it, on youtube.

SketchUp.jpg

The second one is an russian make called NANOCAD 5 http://nanocad.com/ You can use it for more precise work and to produce real architetural drawings in precise scale. The program i,s an almost as functional and powerfull clone, of one of the most popular CAD program's on the globe. The Nanocad program is a bit more complicated than Sketchup. Pity the tutorials that you find on youtube are almost all in Russian language. Fortunatly however it is very simular to its exemple AUTOCAD. If you look for autocad tutorials then you might quickly learn the basic's of Nanocad.

nanocad 5.png

Next post: how to measure the outlines of your future home on your building plot.

And as always, I you have build your home yourself please post also on the forum YOUR story.and if you want to be informed by email everytime a post in this thread is written then please click the box under this forum part.


Luk

[luk]

AT THE BUILDING PLOT

It is very usefull to observe your future building plot over a longer period of time. Let say minimum 4 saisons. You could observe how the wind blows, the Sun, shading and rainfall. Also what noices that will disturb your peace,.... Motorways..nearby factory's...rock and roll summer festivals and the like. Also Good to know is what kind of people are walking over or around your plot and what kind of neighbours you have to deal with.
An ideal plot would be one that is surounded with threes to brake the heaviest winds, with a firm stabile ground, so no complicated foundation works are needed, a one where you could freely sun orient your home, a plot on top of a hill with a beatifull landscape around you, preferable overlooking a valey and one at the far away horizont is closed by a mountain chain.
Away from neighbours but not too remote from civilasation, a little village or town nearby that preferable be in walking distance.
A must is a good fertilise soil abling you to plant fruit trees and grow your own food. 3 to 5 Ha is the minimum sise. Very nice would be if a little stream or river is flowing on your ground and if there would be underground water for digging your own well.

Although we want to live as autark as possible, it would not be bad if modern medea such as, electric grid, communial water suply telephone and sewage can be connected to your plot in case of emergency or as back-up.

tractorongeval, scheuren mulcher, paardrijden,frie, hooien 038.jpg

landschappen, PB210011 2001-11-21_13-19-43.JPG

Luk

Next episode: proofing ground satbility and measuring your building outlay.

[luk]

STABILITY;

A solid haus, even a wooden haus are weighting hundreds of tons and can put a severe strain on the ground. If you are not sure hire a specialised compagny. They come with a special truck that pushes a rod into the ground for resistance measuring or they do a seismic survay. If your building plot has unstable gound or is wet that means bad news. High costs for exstra foundation poles will be needed. Normal looking ground you can survey yourself. Mostly you find your stable layer of gound in a depth of 150 to 200 cm deep. If you hit the harder soil you can hardly dig anymore. It is on this hard soil your foundations must be pu

SETTING OUT YOUR BUILDING OUTLINES ON THE PLOT

gronden, villa, uitzetten plan 15-6-2008_50.jpg

Putting your two deimensional drawing onto a landscape can sound difficult but is not realy. The simple mathematic and the few leveling tools needes we will describe in the next epissode. However once the building measurements are don they must be preserved untouched for the time you have made your foundations, cellar and your first bedinnings of walls. For that you erect on the four corners of your future house 1.5 to 2 meters away (so leave place for digging machine). With fine rope you can mark the real dimensions of you outside walls.



NEXT;YOUR BUILDING DRAWING NOT ANY MORE ONLY ON PAPER BUT ALSO DRAW ON YOUR PLOT. some siple mathepmatics and tools

Luk

[luk]

Hi Folks,

TOOLS AND MATHEMATIKS FOR SEETING OUT ON THE BUIDLING PLOT.

Leveling the plot;

Electronik tools as laserprojectors and such can make your life easy, but you realy can do without them. You only need two things, a water level tube and some mathematics.

1) a water level tube;

images.jpg

The function of a water level tube is easy. The only thing a bit troublesome is getting the water bubblefre in the narrow plastic tube. Best method I found is putting a bucket of water on a high stand some one or two metres high or on the highest spot of the slope and unrolling the tube the whole lenth. Open one end and put the other end closed and holding it on the bottem of the bucket. Then after opening this underwater holded end you will see that by gravety the tube fills itself. Close the end in the bucket after you see the tube is completely filled.

To measure the evenness or your plot. Hit a pole in the ground where your zero point has to be. Remenber the zeor point is the level of the finshed floor of your living room. Beware that this zero level is profitable higher than the entrance of the street and as low as possible. Otherwise you will have to bring too much earth to your buidling plot. Also do not forget that your finished ground level is high enough above your foundation concrete slab to accept, in the case of floor heating an 8 cm thick insulation, about 7 to 8 cm cement underfloor whare you put your heating tubes in it and one or two cm for finished floor tiles. On the pole on your zero point you put a mark some 100 cm above your zero point. This mark will be your leveling mark you will use throughout the whole of your building process.
Now you can start level out the whole of your plot. You need a second person. This second person will hold the level steady on another spot on you plot where you want to know the heigth of in relation to your sero point. You on your turn will move up and down untill the water level will be even with the 1 meter mark. After the water in the tube has come to rest the second person writes a mark exact where the water level in the tube has come to a rest. If you now on this second spot measure the distance from the ground to the second found mark and this is let say 80 cm on this spot then you will know how much ground you will have to remove on this part of your plot. Of course measuring only two spots will not be enough. Here is an image of the procedure.

images2YAP0E58.jpg

luk

Next episode; setting out a perfect corner for your house on the plot.

[luk]

Perfect corners,

We all learned following formula at school A²+b²=c².

The trouble I always had with school education, neither I could see, nor any teacher showed me the connection of the learned theory's with the real world. If any teacher had told me that the good old pythagoras would have been utmost important in building my house I probably would had paid more attention. Anyway without Pythagoras or the 3-4-5 rule no room would have had right angle corners.
There are numerous youtube films about this important technique to set out precise right corners.

The method I always uses is show on this video.



Of course they talk about englisch measures but this does not matter; 3-4-5 metres will do OK too.
Lets check that with the formula
(3² =9)+ (4²=16) = (5²=25) 9+16=25....bingo.

Other values a multiple of the 3 - 4 - 5 value's work ever so godd.
F.I. 6²+8²=10² dus 36+64=100.

The bigger the numbers the more precise your square angle will be.

Luk

Next time; ground works.

[luk]

Ground works,

It is necesary to build your house on sound foundations. You can either choose between a full concrete plate, where your whole house is build upon, or foundate every singe wall. The full concrete plate is the most expensive but the best method. With just foundations under the walls the tensions are unevenly devided especialy where big openings ae made int the walls.
A full concrete plate has to be poored monolitic together with the cellar. If this is not possible to do at once, then great care has to be given to places where old and new concrete poorings are joining. On this spots water can easely find a way, if not is used a sound good waterbarier.
Before pooring the concrete we have to prepare a stable underground.

First we remove the humus layer. This is valuable material so we move it and store it somewhere on the building plot for later use.
After we put aside the humus layer we have o start digging. We must know forehand how thick our building layers will be to reach the forseen point Zero. In this case we calculate a layer of 10 cm dammed stabil sand. 10 cm isolation under the concrete plate, the concrete plate itself minimum 30 cm (a concrete plate of 30 cm can be regarded as water penetration proof, and finaly the fial layers, insulation, stabilisided mortar, floor of another 18 cm. So altogether we must scrape off another layer of 68 cm of earth. Of course if our point zero was to lay inmediatly at the level of the ground minus the humus tehn further earth removing was not needed.

villa, grondwerken 2008-09-04_ 10-28_02 - kopie.jpg

If we have leveled out the underground of most of our later building, we start digging the cellar. Holy Mozes, Already after removing a small depth of earth, we ar hitting rock. This is both good and bad news.

villa, grondwerken 2008-09-10_ 08-46_02 - kopie.jpg

Bad news we have to hire a special digger with a hammer to hammer the cellar out of the rock

villa, grondwerken, 107 2008-12-04_ 11-05 - kopie.jpg

Good news we know our building will stand on very firm grounds. Builded on solid rock, further we have lots of material to stabilisise a road to the building plot for later heavy transports

villa, grondwerken, 059 2008-12-03_ 11-11 - kopie.jpg

But some more bad news. The rock is holding and pooring a lot of underground water. Special draining requerements will be needed.

Kopieer van Kopieer van villa, grondwerken, kelder, rots, waterinsijpeling 10 dec 2008 022 2008-12-09_10-50 - kopie.jpg

NEXT EPISODE: DRAINING GROUNDWATER

[luk]

DRAINING GROUNDWATER.

By deep digging one has parcticaly alway's to count with groundwater. In exstrame cases one will have to pump continoisly during the groundworks in order to lower the groundwater level. In this case the amount of groundwater was not exxesive and the slope of the terrain benificial. digging a ditch downwards filling it with gravel with a drainpipe in the middle of the gravel cured the problem.


Here the ditch is been digged, Downwards the slope. In it will appart from the drain also come the watersuply line and a wait line.

villa, grondwerken, kanalisatie, drainage 5 dec 2008 014 2008-12-05_ 15-54 - kopie.jpg

The deepest point of the building, The hole dugged for the cellar. The bottom of the hole is sligtly dugged in a V-form where I put the beginning of the drain pipe.

villa, grondwerken, kanalisatie, drainage 5 dec 2008 038 2008-12-05_ 15-55 - kopie.jpg

Here one see the floor of the dugged hole. The drain pipe lays aside and waited for the V-form where it then will be laid in. The whole bottem will then be covered with a layer of round gravel.Eventual ground water will seek its way through this gravel into the V-canal and into the drain pipe.

villa, grondwerken, kanalisatie, drainage 5 dec 2008 030 2008-12-05_ 15-55 - kopie.jpg

NEXT EPISODE: PREPARING FOR THE CONCRETE CELLAR FLOOR


Luk

[luk]

PREPARING FOR THE CELLAR FLOOR.

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First a good thick bed of round draining stones

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Important to damm the loose stones as compact as possible.

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While damming make sure everything is evened waterlevel. As good as you can.

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Lay over the draining a thick sheet of geotissue, so the concrete slab can move independant from the ground, and visa versa.

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A 10 cm thick layer of beton....Nicely evened.

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Make sure the drainage pipe stay's on the lowest point and is free from cement and dirt. cover this pipe with washed round stones.

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Make a wooden cofrage the exact measures as the later floor, not to forget to as space for the cellar walls. Have a rubber water insulation ready.

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Roll the insulation on the floor with a big overlap, glue with hot iron and teflon sheet (to prevent the rubber from melting to the iron) all completely watertight. Remember to do this job very precisely. A pinpoint hole can be a fountain if groundwater rises in weat saison and has much pressure. Regard your cellar as a boat. A hole in it and you will drown. Now is the time to work very precise to prevent later trouble, hogh costs and regrets.

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Work very carefull around pipes. Admire the finished waterisolation. It is a good idea to have your building plot tested for RADON GAS. In case you have a high degree of RADON, then your waterisolation layer should also have a thin layer of lead in it. RADON can cause lungcanser.

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If all finishe lie distance tiles for the armement grate.

Luk

NEXT EPISODE: The definitive floor slab with special attentions to more waterproof measurements.

[luk]

Making the beton slab for the cellar floor. TAKING GOOD CARE ABOUT WATERPENETRATION!!

The horizontal rebar reenforcements grates have to be 2 layers. The lowest some 3 cm above ground with resting on beton tiles. and the top lays 25 mm under where the top of the beton must be. Also forsee at least 30 cm overlap.

12 tot 24 april 2009 Villa, grondwerken, betonplaat,055 (19) - kopie.jpg

If you poor a fresh wall on older beton, then where the two walls meet, there will be a crack. In this crack water can penetrate inside your cellar unles you forsee a steel or rubber lock. Here I have mounted a steel plate with glued on it a thin layer of betonite clay. If some water will try to make it through, the betonite will expand and seal, whatever mini cracks, completely off.
Remark also the vertical waiting rebar for the later to reenforce beton cellar wall.

12 tot 24 april 2009 Villa, grondwerken, betonplaat, 090 (40) - kopie.jpg

Also around tubes and cables you must forsee a waterseal. Regard you cellar as a boat floating on the sea. Sometimes the groundwater level has huge pressure force, and the tiniest little opening in you cellar floor or walls can create a fountain. Better now pay the utmost attention on watertightness. Curing later is a costly and troublesome affair.

12 tot 24 april 2009 Villa, grondwerken, betonplaat, 090 (12) - kopie.jpg

When the concrete is still wet, finish as smooth as you can. In summer stay on the building plot until sunset, sprinkle water on the concrete all the time and some day's after to prevent the slab from drying too fast, with cracks as results.
Use watertight beton and a thickness of 30 cm is absolute watertight from its own.

12 tot 24 april 2009 Villa, grondwerken, betonplaat, 090 (21) - kopie.jpg

NEXT EPISODE: THE CELLAR WALLS WITH A LEGO SYSTEM.

Luk